Summer in New York City

Discovering New York's 

Chelsea Market, Meat Packing District and High Line

The Meat Packing District (above) was once just that -- a place where large cattle carcasses were hung and hastily cut up, and then packed and shipped to restaurants and food suppliers. When I first moved to the city 20 years ago, this area was not a destination, except late at night, where a few dance clubs pumped up throbbing music, lots of pots and pan beats here, where men and women (but mostly men) dressed in all kinds of tight, leathery, lascivious attire, and where you wouldn't leave unless you had assembled a large group for protection.  Oh, and after leaving, and before going to Restaurant Florent, club goes needed to dodge the slimy streets, the animal slurry, and the smelly air. Enough said.



  Today, it is a crowded, trendy area of the city filled with luxury retail shops and star-studded hotels. The former slaughtered animal warehouses have been replaced with high-priced art galleries and shops that carry $15,000 tufted Belgian linen sofas.  New York is like this  -- it always has been -- a place that is constantly transforming itself.  It never gets old.  It's a continuous evolution, vital and vibrant, even for those of us who live here. 

With the first day of school still almost 4 weeks away, and the words "no more screen time" echoing in my head, I commandeered my daughter, one of her good friends, and her fine arts educated parents, whose own sense of wanderlust surpasses mine, for a field trip to this thriving area.

Of course Brooklyn (above) has so much to offer that even the children stopped to ask --
 "why go to Manhattan!" But off we went, nonetheless.

First stop:

 Lunch!

 Chelsea Market, a former Nabisco factory taking up an entire city block, is one of the largest, most trafficked food halls in the country.  Located just a block from the Hudson, on 15th Street and 9th Avenue, it offers numerous lunch options, with over 35 vendors. Our choice -- the Seafood Market, filled with fresh fish, prepared sushi and for the kids, Clam Chowder:

Savory & Sweet!

The main concourse at the Chelsea Market has vendors catering to every palate - from the Manhattan Fruit Exchange, to Amy's Bread, to Eleni's Bakery to a variety of smaller specialty shops such as Savory Pies and Doughnuttery (below):

Next up:

A stroll on the High Line. 

The High Line, once an elevated railroad track, sat unused and in disrepair for years. It hadn't accommodated a train since the 1960s. Almost demolished over a decade ago, and stretching at least 20 blocks above the street, today it is one of the city's most popular and celebrated public spaces, it has helped resurrect the meat packing district, and has spurred the development of over $2 billion in luxury condo and office buildings. It's incredible, and after the Brooklyn Bridge, Empire State Building, etc. should be "high" up on any tourist's to do list. 

 There are all kinds of activities, tours and events on the High Line, daily. Check out the website:

http://www.thehighline.org

Telling contrast -- the lush green high line above the urban concrete jungle.

The original rail road ties still exist, and were incorporated into the elaborate award-winning garden design on the High Line (above and below). 

The innovate plant designs were created using mostly indigenous plants. The gardens are decorative, restful and modern - an oasis. 

One of the many shops in the Chelsea Market, Anthropologie carries colorful dishes and table wear that make any meal delectable.  

http://www.anthropologie.com/anthro/product/home-dinner-collections/24040008.jsp#/

Final Stop

The New Whitney museum,  at the end of the High Line.

The terrace extending from the seventh floor of the new Whitney Museum building, designed by Renzo Piano

As soon as you walk off the elevator and into the new Whitney Museum of American Art, you know you are in for a treat.  As expected, there are the works by American staple artists, Georgia O'Keeffe and Edward Hopper. Intermixed with these masterpieces are lesser-known (as yet) pieces that charmingly keep up with the big boys. Oh, and this museum is perfect for kids, it is filled with vibrantly colored works like this one by by Elizabeth Murray, Children Meeting:

The Meat Packing District, High Line and Whitney can get congested, especially on weekends.  Restaurants in the area remain crowded most of the day and often it's even hard to find a seat on park benches.  So after enjoying these sights, we headed south, to the quieter streets of the West Village. One of our favorite rest stops --  Cafe Cluny:

...where an espresso drink, iced tea or better yet, a nice glass of wine can be enjoyed -- in a beautiful French cafe. Cafe Cluny also has a new ice cream line, perfect for the kids. 

When taking a break from the beach, we always
try to make the most of our urban jungle's offerings. 

Calgon, Take Me Away!

In this "grotesque" weather...I dream of retreating to the warm grottos where these amazing works of art were discovered. 

What a day! Even before shoveling my sidewalk on this wintry snowy/rainy/sleety morning, even before my first cup of coffee, the top of my day began with a formidable leak in my freshly painted kitchen ceiling (the roof above this room was repaired just 4 months ago). This was followed by the discovery of a hole in my daughter's snow boots (pointed out only after we had trekked 3 blocks in the snow, forcing a return home) and upon returning home, encountered an ominous manhole explosion and subsequent fire just outside our house, which resulted in the loss of power (a rare event in NYC).

Once we got to school, late and wet, I overheard another parent, also struggling (seemingly) to make sense of the crummy morning, say to her child "why don't we think about everything for which we are thankful."  At first I thought she was talking to me!  Nonetheless, while not directed toward me, it was sound advice, a quiet reminder to keep everything in perspective. Especially for us parents!

After school drop-off, I took a moment to think of how I would use my time most wisely, given all the items that needed attention. In an uncharacteristic yet true "Calgon" moment (for those of us old enough to know what that means)  what I came up with is completely and utterly impractical -- I decided to spend the morning cyber-oogling!

My go-to cyber-oogle -- checking in to see what my favorite designer, Steven Gambrel, is up to these days...

...lots of tufting on those sofas, nice!

It's just wonderful to see designers who aren't afraid of color. The use of color is a running theme in many of my posts, but what makes Steven Gambrel's hues different is that he successfully melds them into being both modern and traditional, and produces spaces that are homey, yet tactile.  Just the way I like it:

A colorful bed design that I did a few years ago -- hues of burnished metals are always warm and welcoming. Speaking of metals,  I am in awe of this artist -- El Anatsui:

His sculptures appear at first glance like opulent mosaics of Byzantine origin. But, upon further inspection, their repurposed, plastic, and commercial roots (actually comprised of bottle caps, milk tin lids, and wood strips) reveal the artwork's true intentions  -- layered commentary on culture and consumerism. It's stunning and important work. 


Ah, that's better! Looking at beautiful images always makes me feel enriched.  Now I am ready to deal with the water dripping into my kitchen, drenching my stove that crucially needs to be in solid working order for tonight's dinner. 

In case your day is less than chipper, I'll leave you with these wonderfully colorful grotesqueries...

Christmas in New York City

Season's Greetings!

For me, putting up the Christmas tree is a substantial undertaking, mostly because my ambitious annual purchase is at least 9 feet tall, requires 12-15 strands of lights, and necessitates having to sort through no less that 15 boxes of ornaments and other holiday trappings.  Once complete, however, it is beyond compare.  

While rummaging through my ornaments this weekend, I came across some delicate, hand-painted, little treasures -- my artisan blown egg wonders.  While reminiscent of the Ukrainian Easter Eggs, the ones that intricately use wax resin to bond ornate designs onto the surface of the egg, these eggs were purchased locally here in Brooklyn from a local artist's shop. Of my many boxes of holiday ornaments, these are some of my most prized.  Unfortunately, from the original dozen that I purchased many years ago, only 4 have survived -- the tall price of purchasing fragile art!

What is it about a lit wreath that just makes everything look better at Christmas?

As anyone who lives within a few hours of New York City knows, there is nothing like spending an afternoon on 5th Avenue in December.  The tree in Rockefeller Center is collossal, the windows at Saks Fifth Avenue drip with holiday taste and style, and all the shops are buzzing with expectant shoppers.  The mass of bustling holiday crowds, however, can be a bit maddening.  But, if seeing it all through the eyes of children, it's quite priceless: 

  

If you find yourself in New York and are looking to experience the magic of the holidays, consider checking out one of the historic hotels, such as the Helmsley Palace (pictured above).  Drop in for tea, sit back and enjoy the festive accents and metropolitan merriment. 

I sincerely hope that the weeks leading up to your holiday are peaceful and filled with style.  

Best wishes!